Paul Smith Menswear Fall 2008

In Fall 2008, Paul Smith continuously his very English collection "My era" with rich variety of tartans and checks. A pair of skinny pants make a modern feeling to people. Khaki jackets match with grey pants, grey jacket match with brown pants, give a hi-end feeling to people. "How many ways can you serve up a black suit?", Paul Smith tell you there are many ways to serve up a black suit.
A zebra belt, a fistful of be-ringed fingers, a leopard-print boot can match in cool black suit.

Paul Smith Menswear Spring 2008

Paul claim to use influence from David Hockney, which using many primany color in his collection. Red,yellow and blue were mostly found in Spring 2008. The color used in collection also influence from David Hockney's work. Paul says, "dressing beautifully with no money," buying striped boating jackets from thrift shops, Spot pattern, painting flowers on shoes.

David Hockney and his work "cat"



Color , Hairstyle and glasses is also influence from David Hockney, very David Hockney style.

I can see that Paul like to find some influence which are match with Paul Smith Style."classic and quirky"

Ref: www.davidmontgomery.org/

Paul Smith Menswear Fall 2007

In Fall 2007, it contains less color compare to the previous color. As it is uneasy compromise between day and night, so Paul used some uneasy define color, black, khaki, which can use in day and night. The outfit are almost in mono-chromatic combination. In this theme, Paul was thinking about sons of his friends, boys in their late teens or early twenties who might show up for one of those posh weekend-house parties—a totem of the Smith ethos—with things missing from their kit.

Paul Smith Menswear Spring 2007

In Spring 2007, since Jean Paul Gaultier sends two mismatched outfits down the catwalk in tandem, Paul Smith was playing passing parade of twins, brothers, and looky-likeys. It makes color and pattern contrast smooth and rough versions. Pairing up of models mostly seemed like a good excuse to double the amount of merchandise on display.

Making a pair of color, let people feels more humorous and match. Color are in low Chroma and high value, making in analogous color combination. This kind of color are very popular in Japan, so Paul is a celebrity in Japan Market. 200 Paul Smith stores are located in Japan and collection R.Newbold is only located in Japan.

Paul Smith SPACE in Japan

In 7th Aug 2007, Catalina Estrada & Paul Smith crossover collection. Bird, floral pattern were found and illustrations are almost in mono-chromatic color (gree,blue,violet) which are receding color, show quite and elegant feeling to people.

Paul Smith Menswear Fall 2006

"Everyone's been doing rock 'n' roll, but we shouldn't forget the cowboy," Paul Smith said after his show, citing Paul Newman and Clint Eastwood as icons of cowpoke masculinity. Cowboy tailoring sits well with English pinstripes and plaids, so dirty yellow color are used almostly in Fall 2006(Cowboy Theme). It is very different from previous collection, which contain sevenal colors in each collection.

Paul Newman

Clint Eastwood

Ref: http://jwautographs.blogspot.com/2007/06/paul-newman-autographs.html

http://www.squibkick.com/afc-pro-bowl-roster-as-told-by-clint-eastwood/

Paul Smith Menswear Spring 2006

After three seasons of rock 'n' roll, Paul calm down in Spring 2006. "Theme from A Summer Place", he imagined his young men coming to Grandmother's house in the country to open it up for the season. Therefore, many stripe tie and pocket square and pastel hue jackers and cuffed linen trousers were appeared. Candy-colored stripes, muted florals pattern were used, some wallpaper patterns and embroidery drawn from cushion covers. This looked sensational in the form of hummingbirds, flowers, and butterflies on the background of a crisp white cotton shirt.
So as to bring a natural country color to people, Paul used pure white, blue, cyan and green most in Spring 2006 and mono-chromatic color was used in model's outfit.



Natural color Butterflies is lightly used on white shirt, which can mainly forcus on the butterflies print, so natural color was popular in Spring 2006.

Paul Smith Menswear Fall 2005

Paul keep colorful style from last reason, leopard print and paired with zebra booties was found in Fall 2005. New English rock look presented, as england style can be easy find in Paul Smith who is a traditional endlang man. Many checked and old wallpaper pattern are found, a vintage (high value & low chroma) floral wallpaper pattern is appeared in Fall season. Pattern color are almost made by mono-chromatic color.

illustrations from the 1920-30s on the London
London Gentlemen like to wear checked pattern, this is a fixture of men’s dress for the remainder of the century. Nowadays, checked pattern is still a fixture of menswear.

Ref: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?t=64559

Paul Smith Menswear Spring 2005

In Spring 2005, strip and checked pattern was known as schoolboys who fancy themselves as rock 'n' roll deities. Most wonder floral pattern from Paul's Fans, you can see in Spring 2005.
Carnation-printed shirt jackets appeared, it looked fresh and natural. Varieties color is used in spring/summer. Paul almost used 6 sets of color, red,orange,yellow,blue,blue-green and violet
to present this colorful & wonderful spring & summer.

Carnation-printed was appeared in Spring 2005 and become one of thw wonderful floral pattern.

Paul Smith Menswear Spring 2004

When Spring come to 2004 again, Paul would like introduce more floral pattern to his fans. In this collection. Many colors is used to bring out the summer and spring feeling. Mono-chromatic color and Analogous color combination are common used in it. Hand drawing/Photos floral pattern appear in the shirt.

We can see that floral sharp color pattern is always used and match with some nature color pants. The flower pattern is found from Andy warhol artwork. His style continuously reflect some 70s feeling in it.

Paul Smith Menswear Fall 2004

Sailor theme is used in Fall/Winter 2004, red,orange,green and violet is common use in it. Some of the outfit is in achromatic and contain the sailor symbol. Bright color shoes is common used in this collection, which can get a attention to people. Some sharp color added in formal suit. Mono-chromatic and Analogous color is common used in his collection again.

Paul Smith Menswear Fall 2003

Many red color is used in this collection, which bring a "christmas" and school look felling to people. School Embroidery is used in sweater which give out school classic feeling. Many mono-chromatic color was used, e.g. red & red-brown. In patter part, complemantary color is used in it, e.g. red & blue. We can see that he use less color in Fall/Winter collection compare to Spring 2003.

Background+Paul Smith Menswear Spring 2003

Background of Paul Smith

London-based designer Paul Smith has been turning “proper” men’s and women’s fashion on their proverbial ears since he abandoned his dreams of being a competitive cyclist and started his own label in 1976. The designer is known for taking classic school boy, school girl, and tomboy looks and having a little fun with them, in the form of super-bright stripes, loud prints, contrasting colors and fabrics, and extra sharp tailoring.

Today there are 12 different collections;Paul Smith, Paul Smith Women, PS by Paul Smith, Paul Smith Jeans, Paul Smith London, R.Newbold (Japan only), Paul Smith Accessories, Paul Smith Shoes, Paul Smith Fragrance, Paul Smith Watches, Paul Smith Pens and Paul Smith furniture and ‘things’. Designed in Nottingham and London, the Paul Smith collections are primarily produced in England and Italy while the fabrics used are mainly Italian, French and British. I choose to analysis menswear, because he made his mark first in "menswear".

This is his collection in spring 2003, it contains pop art feeling in his print. Star print is also popular in 70's fashion. Andy Warhol is represent 70's style, also the style is "classic and quirky" which is the same style with Paul Smith. people describe Paul Smtih as "Savile Row meets Mr Bean". He can play his dual roles well, both designer and retailer. It is because when he is young, he was a manager of the menswear department of the Birdcage boutique on Bridlesmith Gate, Nottingham. Another reason is his father is a atailor and he has a foundation case in clothes. so Paul Smith allows men to buy relatively traditional and hence commercially designs that offer a "twist" od individuality. Parker Posey, violinist Vanessa Mae, Jude Law, Matthew McConaughey, David Bowie and Mika who is very fashionable and playful people, they like to wear Paul Smith.

Star print and sharp color is 70's style

POP ART Feeling picture and Sharp mono-chromatic color. It shows Paul like to use 70s Color, pattern and art so much.


Ref: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Floral_Street

'Andy Warhol and His World',Louis Revy

'70s Fashion Vintage Fashion and Beauty Ads', EdJim Heimann, TASCHEN